That Beautiful Place Called Aldona

Aldona is probably the best-kept secret of Goa, a coastal region in western India. This picturesque village is known for its lush green landscapes and vintage Portuguese-era settlements. 

When I heard about this village from a friend, I decided to pay it a visit. Right from its name, the place enchanted me. Aldona means ‘old’ in German, aptly reflecting its heritage.

Until 2004, the only way to reach Aldona was by ferry. Since then, the cable-stayed bridge connects the village to nearby islands and has become an iconic landmark.

The first thing I spotted after crossing the bridge was the statue of Edward J Soares, an educationist who defied the Portuguese regime in Goa to establish an English medium school.

Born in 1895, Soares travelled to England, France and Germany in the 1920s to learn innovative teaching methods. At just 25, he founded the Saint Thomas High School in 1923. Over the decades, thousands of young boys and girls from Aldona and the surrounding villages have graduated from his school, with many going to work abroad.

The village has a high literacy rate, thanks to Soares’ unwavering efforts. Today, his statue stands tall as a loving tribute to his legacy, funded by his students who are scattered across his globe. 

The Mapusa River graciously flowed through Aldona, its waters reflecting the village’s sylvan beauty.

What I love the most about Aldona is that it remains blissfully off the tourist radar. During my visit, I was the only outsider in the village, allowing me to experience the authentic charm of rural Goan life, untouched by the crowds that come with tourism.

No matter in which part of the village you are, the Saint Thomas Church is visible from high up on its citadel.

From its humble beginning from a chapel built in 1569 by the Franciscans, the church has grown to become a defining symbol of Aldona.

Right outside the church is a commemorative headstone dedicated to the arrival of Saint Thomas to India in the first century AD, built in 1952.

I attended the Sunday morning Mass at this church, which coincided with the Saint Francis Xavier Exposition. A priest all the way from Portugal presided over the service, delivering a soulful sermon.

Above the altar, the words ‘Mhojea Somia Ani Mhojea Deva’ are inscribed, which translates to ‘My Lord and my God’.

The regal church is ornately adorned with intricate symbolic murals depicting scenes from the Bible and grand statues.

The church has a fascinating history. In 1895, a band of robbers tried to plunder the church. But after breaking the main door and entering the sacred hall, they were startled to find an angelic figure with a drawn sword blocking their path.

Meanwhile, the villagers gathered to confront the robbers and pelted them with stones. The attack resulted in the deaths of 16 robbers, who were buried in the church cemetery.

The inscription outside the cemetery reads ‘Aiz Maka Fulea Tuka’ which translates to ‘Today, me. Tomorrow, you’.

Since that incident, the Choranchem (Robbers) Feast is celebrated annually on 29th October.

The church offered a commanding vantage point, providing scenic views of the village below.

The Saint Thomas Church forms an integral part of the collective identity of Aldona that it has found its way into the plaques of most houses here.

Yet another church in Aldona is the Saint Rita’s Chapel, built in 1864 and dedicated to the Italian nun, Rita of Cascia. This is one of only two chapels in Goa dedicated to her legacy.

The Mãe de Deus (Portuguese for Mother of God) Chapel is dedicated to Mother Mary.

The residents of Aldona, known as Aldonkars, are deeply devout, with faith playing a crucial role in their daily lives. Their deep devotion is evident in every single home here.

At nearly every turn in the village, I’d stumble upon a chapel. What’s remarkable is that these chapels are entirely funded and looked after by the villagers themselves. Some of them, like the Saint Sebastian Chapel, are over a century old.

Besides, there are numerous Catholic charitable institutions run by different religious orders.

Ros omelette, a popular Goan Catholic street food. Spicy gravy is poured over a freshly fried omelette and served with bread.

For lunch, I headed to La Bonita, a quaint restaurant situated on a farm, and treated myself to Goan prawn pulao, mildly spiced rice made with shrimp and coconut milk.

The lush green ambience alone made the experience worth it, even before the food arrived.

For a quick bite, I grabbed a prawn pattice, a buttery, light pastry enclosing a spicy filling of prawns, a popular Goan snack, especially after Sunday church service.

Aldona has some Portuguese-era houses that showcase the untouched charm of a bygone era. The houses evoked a sense of nostalgia and timelessness.

On the way, I chanced upon a vibrant street art mural on the wall, which led me to discover the work of Tona, a renowned street artist often referred to as the Banksy of India.

A few miles from Aldona lies the 16th-century Corjuem Fort. Despite its modest size, the fort played a crucial role in the town’s defence during its heyday.

An interesting trivia surrounding the fort revolves around Ursula Lancastre, a brave and determined woman who was dissatisfied with the restrictions placed upon the women of that time. Disguising herself as a man, she enlisted as a soldier and was posted as one of the fort’s defenders. Her disguise remained undetected until she was captured as a prisoner of war. The guard captain was so impressed by her audacity that he proposed marriage instead of punishing her.

The village life in Aldona invited me to slow down and relish the simple pleasures of life. To the extent that I was tempted to leave my city life behind and settle here instead.

Aldona, you have my heart. I will never forget the couple of days I spent in your serene abode. So long, until we meet again.