Alone in Ceylon

Sri Lanka wasn’t on my travel bucket list, but a last-minute change of plans led me to this beautiful country. My short visit to its capital was all about venturing beyond the touristy places and discovering some of the city’s lesser-known spots.

After landing in the Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport, I made the rookie mistake of booking my hotel room near the airport. Only later did I learn that the so-called ‘Colombo’ airport is not even in Colombo but in a totally different city called Negombo, which is a good 38 kilometres from the capital. Talk about misleading names!

Sri Lanka has a complicated past and present. After 28 years of a violent civil war, the country experienced a decade-long period of peace before things fell apart following the 2019 Easter bombing that shook the country and led to an ensuing economic crisis.

In conversations with cab drivers, I sensed the pain in their voices when they spoke about their island’s struggles. Rising inflation and political instability had profoundly affected the citizens.

Despite it all, life continued to move on, with tourists flocking to the island and tourism providing much-needed economic support, as it is the country’s main source of income.

Colombo’s cityscape is where the old meets the new, with colonial-era landmarks standing alongside modern skyscrapers. The city is known for its beautiful blue beaches, bustling streets, and lush green parks. 

Galle Face Green, an ocean-side park along the coast

The Lotus Tower, the tallest structure in South Asia, was one of my first stops. Standing at a height of 1153 feet, the skyscraper has become to Sri Lanka what the Burj Khalifa is to Dubai. To me, it looked like a giant pencil touching the sky.

From the top of the tower, Colombo city and its coastline unfolded beautifully, with the turquoise waters calming the mind.

Besides the observation deck, the tower also houses a restaurant, museum, bgaming area, food court, among others. I eagerly looked forward to dine at Blue Orbit, the revolving restaurant offering panoramic views, but the reality check came when I found out tables get booked up days in advance. A scoop of green apple ice cream from the ground-floor ice cream parlour became my consolation prize.

Next, I took a leisurely stroll along the Beira Lake, which was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century to protect Colombo from their adversaries.

The aroma of sizzling prawns wafted from a nearby food stand, luring me to try the freshly fried prawn fritters. The spicy prawns were perfectly balanced with the crispy exterior, making for a delicious afternoon snack.

Although Sri Lanka’s official state religion is Buddhism, I could see religious syncretism wherever I went in Colombo. Where else could one see the icons of Christ and the Buddha together?

Christianity has played a significant role in shaping Colombo, particularly in the fields of development, healthcare, education, and community empowerment. 

According to history, Saint Thomas the Apostle preached in Sri Lanka (then known as Taprobane) in the first century following his mission to the Malabar coast. India and Sri Lanka used to be connected by land by a sandbar once upon a time until a cyclone destroyed it down the centuries, eventually isolating Sri Lanka into an island.

The Apostle preached on the hillock of Santhumpitiya, on which the St. Thomas’ Church, Colombo now stands. It was built in 1815 on the site of an earlier Portuguese Roman Catholic Church, which is believed to have been constructed on the foundations of an even earlier church of the Persian Nestorian Christians who lived in Ceylon around the 6th century.

One of the oldest churches in the country, it’s now part of the Anglican Church.

I met with Reverend DK Balakrishnan, the current vicar, who graciously gave me a tour of the church and shared its rich history. He also recounted how the church was targeted by terrorists during the 2019 Easter bombings, but miraculously escaped when one of the security guards grew suspicious of an imminent bomber. The other target, the Saint Anthony's Church, which is just 350 meters away, suffered severe damage and loss of life.

A worship service had just concluded and the quaint church was filled with the gentle chatter of the members.

Like most Anglican churches, this church had an eagle lectern, from where the Scripture is read during services.

 The flying eagle is a symbol associated with Saint John the Apostle, representing God’s word spreading to the ends of the earth.

Outside the church, I walked past old memorial stones dating to the Dutch colonial era.

As I approached Saint Anthony's Church in Kochchikade, memories flooded back to April 21, 2019, a day still etched in my mind. I'd just finished attending the morning Easter mass and was heading home when my phone buzzed with the devastating news of the bombings that claimed over 300 innocent lives across three churches in Sri Lanka. In that moment, my mind went blank, struggling to grasp the full horror of what I’d just read.

Completed in 1828, the shrine is dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua and owes its origins to a miracle performed by Father Antonio, a priest from Cochin. The locals, panicked by the rising sea, sought his intervention, and he prayed for the waters to recede. Miraculously, the sea not only receded but also revealed a sandbank, where Father Antonio planted a cross and constructed a small mud church.

Saint Anthony is deeply revered by locals of different faiths, who come here to seek his intercession and blessings. Many people have testified that this miraculous church has answered their prayers.

After sustaining significant damage, the church reopened to the public two months later. Following the ISIS terrorist attack, it has been placed under stringent security measures by the Sri Lankan police. Getting past the multiple layers of security checks took me several minutes.

A tiny piece of Saint. Anthony’s tongue is preserved in a special reliquary located in a glass case at the entrance.

A poignant sign on the altar reads, ‘Priest Victim’ in memory of the priest who led the Easter Sunday mass when the bomb exploded.

A wave of sadness swept through me when I approached the memorial plaque erected in memory of the victims who lost their lives during the 2019 Easter Sunday mass at this very church.

Children, women, families, many lives were destroyed on that tragic day. Hate was spewed on a holy day meant to celebrate love. Lives were taken on a day meant to celebrate the resurrection.

Christ says in Matthew 5:10, “Blessed are those who are persecuted because of righteousness, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven.”

May the souls of the faithful departed rest in eternal peace.

Today, the church stands as a powerful symbol of hope and perseverance in the face of tribulations.

The Wolvendaal Church, built in 1757 as part of the Dutch Reformed Church, is another historic landmark in Colombo. Constructed in the Doric style of the period, the church is in the form of a Greek cross.

An important landmark of the Dutch Colonial era, it’s one of the oldest Protestant churches in the country and the only Dutch Church on the island that has been continually in use.

From the date of its construction to the end of Dutch rule on the island, Wolvendaal Church was the primary place of worship for the city.

When the church was built, the Europeans mistook the packs of jackals roaming in the wilderness for wolves, and the area became known as Wolf’s Dale, or Wolvendaal in Dutch. And the name has stuck since.

Time seemed to stand still inside the church, the chandeliers and pews a testament to its timeless legacy.

The pulpit is typical for a Dutch Reformed Church, where the minister stands higher than the congregation on a wooden structure.

The state pew at the front once accommodated the Dutch governor and his officials, with ebony and calamander church chairs dating back centuries.

The stone floor features engraved tombstones of those who lie buried within the church, including five Dutch governors.

On the walls are elaborate mural tablets commemorating different people over time.

The church organ is the oldest organ in the country, dating back centuries.

Next, I headed to the Cinnamon Gardens neighbourhood, where the Cathedral of Christ the Living Saviour stands. Lush greenery surrounds the church, adding to its beauty. 

The architecture combines traditional elements of the Kandyan period and modern design. Each part of the building incorporates the symbolic aspects of the Christian faith. 

A tall wooden Cross, made from Kumbuk wood, hangs behind the main altar table and symbolizes Christ’s suffering for mankind. The walls and columns have an unfinished appearance to symbolize the unfinished task of the Church.

The cathedral houses two chapels. The murals on the walls of St. Mary’s Chapel, which depict the Wedding at Cana and the Woman at the Well, are painted in the traditional Sri Lankan style by renowned artist Stanley Kirinde.

Wedding at Cana

Samaritan Woman at the Well

When I asked a local to recommend a good nearby food spot, she suggested Ruhunu Food Center in Pettah. After minutes of glancing at the menu, I ordered lamprais, a Sri Lankan delicacy introduced by the Dutch Burgher community, known for their mixed Dutch and Sri Lankan heritage. The name is derived from the Dutch word lomprijst which translates to “lump of rice.”

This traditional dish consists of beef or pork, ash plantain, fried eggplant (also known as aubergine), seeni sambol, shrimp paste, meatballs, and boiled rice, all wrapped in banana leaves and baked in an oven.

I thoroughly enjoyed the lamprais, the flavours had come together so well. Its presentation, wrapped in banana leaves, reminded me of pothichoru, a similar dish from the Indian state of Kerala.

Following a hearty meal, I paid a visit to the Saint Peter’s Church Fort, located on Church Street in Colombo Fort, on the northern side of the Grand Oriental Hotel. Established in 1821, it’s one of the oldest-functioning churches in Colombo. 

The heritage of the British era seemed to come alive inside this yesteryear Anglican church.

The church has its own cemetery with several monuments, tombs, and plaques. During the Sri Lankan Civil War, access to the church was highly restricted due to its location directly opposite the Colombo Harbour and adjacent to the Sri Lanka Police Headquarters.

I then explored the Saint Lucia’s Cathedral, the oldest and largest parish cathedral in the country, which traces its origins to a small chapel built by the Oratorian Fathers in the 17th century. Built in the medieval architectural style, this cathedral looks grand with seven big statues crowning the top and large columns at the front.

In 1995, Pope John Paul II visited the cathedral during his papal visit to Sri Lanka.

The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Colombo. The interior features a row of larger-than-life statues of saints along the aisle.

A choir practice was underway when I arrived, and I got to listen to some soulful hymns.

It’s dedicated to Saint Lucia, a Roman Christian martyr who died during the persecution of Christians in the Roman Empire. A portion of the saint’s bones are preserved in the cathedral to this day.

Outside the church stands a statue of Father Ignatius Perera, a priest known for his kindness towards the needy and who touched many lives in Sri Lanka. Affectionately called the Radio Priest, he studied in Rome, mastered electronics, and became an expert in radio technology.

He founded a radio lab to train school dropouts in electronics and provide them with vocational skills. His legacy continues to inspire many, and he remains a beloved figure in Sri Lankan history.

My heritage tour in Colombo ended with visits to two iconic churches, one of which was the All Saints’ Church, built in the Gothic architectural style and dating back to 1884.

The interior features colourful stained-glass windows with the main icon above the altar depicting our Mother of Perpetual Help.

Established in 1842, The St. Andrew’s Scots Kirk is the first Presbyterian church in Sri Lanka. It belongs to congregation of the Presbytery of Ceylon, part of the Church of Scotland, lending the church its name.

Designed by British architect Edward Skinner, the church is renowned for its beautiful stained-glass windows, which arrived by steam ship from England in 1921.

In the evening, I headed to One Galle Face, Sri Lanka’s largest mall, where I had dinner at the Pizza Bakery, a highly rated pizza place. Sri Lankan prawns are known for their firm texture and sweet ocean-fresh taste, so I indulged in Butter Garlic Chilli Prawns, served with rosemary olive focaccia. The buttery prawns were simply succulent with a perfect balance of spices.

Next on my plate was the spicy bulgogi beef wood-fired sourdough pizza, which was an explosion of flavours.

My brief visit to Colombo was an eye-opening reminder of the country’s resilience. The city’s beauty was overshadowed by its troubled present, yet it was the people’s strength that shone like a light at the end of the tunnel.

I hope to return one day, not just to revisit the city, but to witness the peace and prosperity that its people so rightly deserve.