The Beating Heart of Malaysia

When someone says Kuala Lumpur, you’d immediately think of the towering skyscrapers, irresistible street food, and vibrant nightlife. But there’s more to the capital beyond the typical tourist trail.

Back in 2021, I penned a short story set in KL, which made me do some basic research about the city. Fast forward three years later, and it was finally time to experience firsthand the bustling streets I’d once imagined through my writing.

From the moment I touched down in the city, I knew I was in for an unforgettable week-long adventure.

It was drizzling when I arrived, and the air was chilly. After checking into my room, I hit the streets.

The KL Monorail connected most parts of the city and made traveling around a breeze, offering some stunning views along the way.

No prizes for guessing where I headed first. A mere mention of Malaysia will make the Petronas Twin Towers spring up in anyone’s mind. The imposing presence of the iconic towers dominate the city skyline.

Admiring it from afar was one thing, but gazing at the looming structure up close was a whole another level. As a child, I often used to mix up the Petronas Twin Towers with the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center.

The experience started as I stepped into the elevator and reached the sky-bridge linking the towers on the 41st and 42nd floors.

The other skyscrapers in the neighbourhood were dwarfed by the towering height of the twins.

Amid the concrete jungle, the lush green spaces of KLCC Park next door stood out.

I then ascended to the observation deck on the 86th floor of the 88-storey skyscraper. From above, the surrounding buildings looked like meticulously arranged Lego blocks.

The faraway mountains made for a picturesque backdrop, perfectly framing the scene.

The panoramic views of this urban metropolis were simply spectacular, with skyscrapers and streets as far as I could see.

At a distance, I could spot the Merdeka 118 and the KL Tower, two of the city’s skyscrapers.

KL is a multicultural city composed of Malays, Chinese, Indians, among others. What unites them all is their love for their country.

The bustling Petaling Street let me experience a slice of Chinese culture in Malaysia.

This Chinatown was formed in the 1870s, as many Chinese immigrants settled in Malaysia during the prosperous tin rush era, a time that saw the country become the world’s largest tin producer, supplying over half of the global tin supply.

Clothes, shoes, gadgets, watches, herbs, knockoffs, you name it, you get it in Petaling Street.

Haggling is a common sight here, where the art of negotiation comes in handy.

Bright red Chinese lanterns hung above as I navigated the labyrinthine street.

The street food was unmissable, its aroma wafting through the air and teasing the senses.

Mochi, traditional Japanese rice cakes, were sold in a variety of flavours like mango, matcha, and orange.

Dried sliced pork meat was stacked up like a deck of cards. Although this might seem unexpected in Muslim-majority Malaysia, the Chinese make up 43% of KL’s population and they love pork best.

Air Mata Kucing, an ice-cold refreshing drink, is famous at this namesake hawker stall that helped popularize it. The nutrient-rich fruit juice quenched my thirst on a warm sunny day.

Chestnuts were roasted on hot stones, enticing passersby.

A range of souvenirs, from tees to tote bags to miniatures, were on display. As expected, the Petronas Twin Towers imagery was everywhere.

The fruit stands were filled with rambutan and durian, two fruits native to Southeast Asia. I tried both, and loved the taste of rambutan, which is similar to lychee. In stark contrast, durian, with its pungent smell and strong taste, is not for everyone.

Japanese Maneki Neko cat figurines are Feng Shui symbols considered to bring good luck and fortune. I don’t know about the customer, but it sure does for the vendors given its price.

Colourful street art and façades adorned the neighbourhood.

With the rest of the cityscape embracing modernity, this Chinatown still retains its old-world charm.

The Guan Di Temple, a historic Taoist temple established in 1887, stood out with its striking red and gold decor and intricate carvings.

I checked out a couple of malls in KL, but nothing could beat the experience of shopping in Petaling Street.

Merdeka 118 was just a ten-minute walk from the market. Standing at a height of a whopping 2227 feet, the skyscraper is the world’s second-tallest building, surpassed only by  the Burj Khalifa. Completed in January 2024, this was not yet open to the public at the time of my visit. I could only wonder how the view might be from the top. 

After spending time in the concrete jungles, I wanted a glimpse of the real jungle, so I headed to the National Zoo of Malaysia.

Exploring the zoo brought out the kid in me, with each turn revealing something unique.

Some of the curious residents were more than happy to pose for my camera.

Giant Tortoises live for up to 120 years. Imagine living that long!

The Malayan tiger, the national animal of Malaysia, was sitting royally on its jungle throne. It's the smallest of the continental tiger species, including the Siberian and Bengal tigers. But looks are deceptive, as this big cat can take down an elephant.

The morbid humour on the warning signs outside the tiger enclosure cracked me up.

I’m all for diversity. So, after saying hello to the orange tiger, I headed over to meet its white cousin. Mighty as the tiger is, the scorching sun is mightier, making the poor cat go for a swim.

Besides the resident animals, there were also rogue monkeys sneaking around the zoo, waiting to steal something away from unsuspecting visitors.

The zoo’s main attraction is the Panda Conservation Centre, home to the superstar duo Fu Wa and Feng Yi.

The adorable giant pandas were loaned by China in 2014. This is part of China’s panda diplomacy initiative that has sent over 65 pandas to 18 countries.

The playful pandas in the zoo were horsing around, reminding me of Po’s antics from Kung Fu Panda.

A panda’s carefree life is the ultimate dream. They are all about eating, playing, and sleeping. 

The pandas are so popular that some people even visit the zoo just to see them, and they also have their own merchandise range.

Bukit Bintang is the lively soul of KL where the city comes alive. The shopping district is home to malls, restaurants, clubs, and much more.

It’s a pedestrian paradise where I walked my way, surrounded by bright neon lights, street performers, and infectious energy.

Nightfall unleashed the city that never sleeps. It was surprising to see the place abuzz with activity even as late as 3 AM.

Damascus in Bukit Bintang is famous for its Syrian cuisine and infamous for its long queues. The exhaustive wait took almost an hour. Was it worth the hype? You bet! The Beef Shawarma and Hummus Lamb (lamb mince on classic hummus, made with chickpeas, tahini, and olive oil) I ordered made for a culinary explosion of flavours. 

I spent the following day exploring KL's historic churches. During my visit to the St. John’s Cathedral, I learned that it dated back to 1883, making it the oldest church in KL. Brickfields is one of Kuala Lumpur’s culturally diverse neighbourhoods, also known as Little India.

The stunning stained glass windows from Paris, illustrating scenes from the Gospel, filled me with wonder. 

These heritage churches, serving the ethnically diverse Christian communities throughout the country, reflect the significant role of Christianity in shaping Malaysia’s multicultural identity. Most of them are over a century old.

Church of the Holy Rosary (1903)

Tamil Methodist Church (1896)

St. Mary’s Cathedral (1887)

Evangelical Lutheran Zion Church (1924)

Kuala Lumpur Chinese Methodist (Hokkien) Church (1897)

Church of Saint Anthony (1911)

St. Andrew’s Church (1918)

Church of Our Lady of Fatima (1963)

I stopped by a roadside stand to have the much-loved Asian drink of bubble tea (chilled and creamy tea served with chewy tapioca balls). The friendly hawker told me the intriguing success story of how the Malaysian entrepreneur Bryan Loo became a billionaire by selling bubble tea. I tried the tea, and let’s just say it’s no wonder folks are making a fortune out of this.

Visiting the Telekom Museum was like getting a phone call from the past. The highlight was that entry was free.

The almost hundred-year-old building was originally used as an office for the manual telephone exchange in the 1920s.

It’s hard to imagine how people used to once rely on manual telephone exchanges to connect with each other.

The payphones brought back nostalgic memories of the past, before the advent of smartphones

The exhibit’s curated collection of over a hundred vintage telephones on display was fascinating. I imagined how much of a cacophony it would be if all the phones started ringing at the same time.

Aquaria KLCC, the largest oceanarium in Malaysia that houses over 5000 marine creatures, offered an immersive adventure.

I locked eyes with a meerkat over there, who reminded me of Timon from The Lion King. He looked sad, though; probably he’s missing his bestie Pumba.

The tall, cylindrical aquarium was filled with a glittering school of exotic fish.

Beneath its attractive exterior, the red lionfish is known to pack a venomous sting that can cause extreme pain and nausea. Yikes!

The most interesting part was the 90-metre-long underwater transparent tunnel. I stepped onto the travelator and looked around in awe as it transported me into the marine world.

The stingray’s face caught my attention; it almost resembled an eerie smile

It was sort of scary to see a sand tiger shark hovering over me. A not-so-fun fact is that these sharks eat their own siblings while they are in the womb.

A sign said that viewing through aquarium glass makes creatures appear smaller than their actual size, which made me wonder just how gigantic the already-huge shark must be.

What Petaling Jaya is to shopping, Jalan Alor is to food. It took me over an hour to walk through this 500-metre stretch lined with street food stalls.

The street was a treat for the senses, with its overflowing crowds, the cacophony of vendors, and irresistible aromas.

From steaming bowls of noodles to sizzling skewers of satay, the diverse flavors of Malaysia as well as the rest of Asia can be found here.

Charred to perfection, the juicy satays (grilled meat) were irresistible, each bite a fusion of sweet and spicy flavours.

The smoky sizzle of the satay and BBQ resounded through the air, tempting the tastebuds.

The street food vendors expertly prepared each dish with ninja-like precision.

Chinese Beef Roti

With so many delicious street food options to choose from, one will be spoilt for choice.

Especially, the seafood options were plentiful, ranging from giant deep-fried squid to chili crab.

I tried the golden fried crispy giant squids, marinated in tempura batter, and they were truly delectable.

The soft moonlight and savoury street food made for a memorable night as I dined alfresco at Jalan Alor.

Whether I was near or distant, the KL Tower’s unique shape was instantly recognizable. At a height of 1381 feet, it’s the world’s seventh-tallest tower and the highest viewpoint in KL open to the public, at the time of writing.

The 1381-foot-tall building’s sheer scale made me feel like a tiny David facing a modern Goliath.

The elevator rocketed me all the way up to the observatory in less than a minute. On reaching the viewpoint, I was on top of the world, quite literally.

While the Petronas Towers’ observatory is confined behind the glass, the KL Tower’s deck offers an exhilarating open-air experience.

The panoramic views of this urban metropolis were simply spectacular, with skyscrapers and streets as far as I could see.

The serene garden surrounding the mosque was ideal for spending some quiet time.

As I discovered the wonders of Kuala Lumpur, my journey took me to the National Mosque of Malaysia.

The main roof is shaped like a 16-point star. Eleven of the points represent the states of Malaysia, while the other five represent the Pillars of Islam.

The interior of the mosque was enveloped in revered silence, creating an atmosphere of devotion. This sacred space can accommodate around 15,000 at a given time.

Hameediyah, a restaurant with a century-old legacy, was my go-to spot for relishing authentic Malaysian chain. I indulged in their signature murtabak (meat-stuffed pancakes) served with pickled onions and a curry dip. The crispy exterior, coupled with its savoury fillings, was a fantastic combo.

I topped off the hearty meal with a refreshing glass of sirap bandung (condensed milk flavoured with rose syrup).

The Malaysian people I met during my trip were incredibly warm and welcoming, whether Malays, Chinese, or Indians. One of them recommended a visit to the River of Life

The cobalt blue-lit river beautifully complemented my relaxing evening stroll.

As my visit coincided with the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslim brethren break their fast in the evening, a variety of appetizing seasonal snacks were on display at the pop-up stalls along the river.

The iconic tagline ‘Malaysia Truly Asia’ has defined Malaysian tourism since its introduction in 1999. It captures the nation’s spirit, where all the colours, flavours, sounds, and sights of Asia come together in perfect harmony. After visiting KL, I can truly feel the same.