All Roads Lead to Mangalore

They say Rome wasn’t built in a day. Mangalore, aptly known as the Rome of the East, has its own timeless charm. The city earned its befitting sobriquet owing to the historic churches and heritage buildings that define its cityscape.

From the moment I landed here, I was surrounded by the city’s serene atmosphere. One of the first sights I saw was the iconic Mangalore Clock Tower. Originally built in the 1960s, it has become an integral landmark.

I stayed at Summer House, a beautiful homestay in the quaint neighbourhood of Bejai. Owned by a Mangalorean Catholic family, the house was a tranquil retreat surrounded by lush green trees.

While its rhyming cousin Bangalore is a concrete jungle that’s becoming borderline unliveable, Mangalore is a chilled-out city that offers a refreshing respite from the urban chaos.

One reason Mangalore is hailed as the Rome of the East is the Rosario Cathedral, whose high dome is inspired by Saint Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican.

Built by the Portuguese in 1568, the cathedral is also known as Nossa Senhora de Rosario (Church of Our Lady of Rosary) and is the first church in the region.

Manglorean Catholics suffered persecution under Tipu, the tyrannical ruler of Mysore, and were held captive for fifteen years, between 1784 and 1799. This genocide claimed the lives of over 60,000 Catholics and marked a dark chapter in the city’s history. During this period, Tipu destroyed 27 churches in Mangalore, including this cathedral.

Decorated with ornate icons and sculptures, the church offers a serene atmosphere, perfect for spiritual renewal.

The icon of the Virgin Mary at the high altar was found by the fishermen at sea; when it got caught in their net and was later brought to the church and installed here. 

The grand dome is beautifully adorned with paintings depicting the Twelve Apostles of Christ.

One feature that stood out to me in this church was the candle stand that came with an honour code. Visitors are invited to take a candle and contribute its value to the offering box, fostering a sense of trust.

In the same year of 1568, the Portuguese built the Monte Mariano (Mount of Mary) Church on a hillock at Farangipet (means the ‘land of the foreigners’ in the local language, referring to the presence of the early Portuguese traders here).

Nestled amidst breathtaking natural beauty on the banks of the River Nethravathi, the church is an abode of tranquility.

I had the privilege of meeting Father D’Souza, a priest at this church. He was hard-of-hearing and I had to raise my voice to converse with him. He courteously showed me around the church and also invited me for breakfast. One seldom comes across a gem of a person.

During the 18th century, when Tipu’s forces were razing down churches in Mangalore, this one was miraculously spared. The reason being the friendship between Tipu’s father, Hyder Ali, and Father Joachim Miranda, the parish priest of this church. Hyder Ali had sought Father Miranda’s prayers for military success, made votive offerings, and even had his soldiers light candles at the feet of Mother Mary. 

When Tipu’s horsemen arrived to plunder the monastery, Father Miranda showed them a copper plate granted by Hyder Ali, authorizing the land’s rights for worship, which prompted the soldiers to spare this holy place.

It’s home to a 500-year-old wooden carved statue of Saint Francis of Assisi, which was brought by the Portuguese.

At the entrance of the church is a silver-hued statue of Mother Mary. The inscription at the bottom of the statue reads, “At the feet of this statue, the soldiers of Hyder Ali and those of Tipu Sultan were lighting candles.”

Yet another historic sacred space in the city is the Milagres Church dedicated to Our Lady of Miracles. During the 16th century, the Goan Catholics who migrated to Mangalore lacked priestly leadership, so they approached a Carmelite missionary Father Vincento Maria. He, in turn, appealed to Rome, briefing the Pope on the dire situation of Christians in the region. The Holy See came to their aid, and this church was built in 1680.

This was one of the 27 churches razed by Tipu in 1784 on Ash Wednesday, a day sacred to Catholics. After his humiliating defeat at the hands of the British, the captured Christians returned to Mangalore, and the Milagres Church was rebuilt.

Built using a blend of the Roman and Gothic architectural styles, the church is renowned for its intricate altar work, stained glass windows, and high ceilings.

Mangalorean Catholics have surnames like Saldanha, Vaz, Gonsalves, D’Souza, Coelho, and Pinto, which are evident on the tombstones in the church cemetery.

The Holy Cross Church, founded in 1873, is another poignant reminder of that dark period.

During the Captivity of Mangalorean Catholics ordered by Tipu, the captives had worshipped and revered a cross hidden in the forest. The cross was ceremoniously brought by Father Dubois to the Cordel hill, where this church stands.

The French missionary Father Alexander Dubious, commonly known by the locals as Frad Saib, served as the first parish priest and is remembered for leading a life of simplicity, honesty, dedication, and sacrifice. Every year, the parishioners celebrate Frad Saib Day on December 11.

The Saint Aloysius Chapel, built by Jesuit missionaries in 1880, is undoubtedly the crowning glory among Mangalore’s many historic churches. Situated within the Saint Aloysius College campus, this magnificent chapel is a replica of the Sistine Chapel in Rome.

Aloysius College, a renowned educational institution, has its roots dating back to 1880 when nine Jesuits arrived in the city at the request of its residents to establish a premier institution of higher learning.

The chapel’s artistic interiors were painted by Italian Jesuit artist Antonio Moscheni, who single-handedly covered its walls and ceilings with frescoes and oil paintings over two and a half years. Born in Italy, Moscheni honed his skills at the Accademia Carrara di Belle Arti di Bergamo and later studied Vatican masterpieces in Rome. He gained international recognition as a world-class fresco artist, exhibiting in Milan and Turin.

At the peak of his fame, Moscheni renounced his career to join the Society of Jesus. Despite his new vocation, his superiors encouraged his art, assigning him to paint churches in Italy and later the Chapel of St. Aloysius College in Mangalore. Due to the unavailability of local paints and impracticality of importing from Europe, Moscheni ingeniously created his own paints using vegetable dyes. In 1905, he died while painting a church in Cochin, doing what he loved. Today, his paintings continue to reflect the beauty of God’s creations in all their glory.

The paintings on the ceiling are canvases, and those on the walls are frescoes. Mr. Vincent, the chapel’s official guide, enthusiastically explained the historical significance behind each work of art. Visitors are encouraged to contribute to the church’s heritage fund, which exclusively supports the maintenance of the paintings.

The walls are adorned with exquisite scenes from the life of Christ, depicted in chronological order. I couldn’t help but stand there for minutes, captivated by the breathtaking beauty of these masterpieces.

A powerful scene behind the altar depicts Saint Aloysius selflessly serving plague victims in Rome, where he courageously tended to the abandoned despite the risk to his own health. His unwavering dedication ultimately proved fatal, claiming his life at just 23.

The Latin inscription atop the arch reads: “At the close of the 19th century, this Church of St. Aloysius, patron of youth, was adorned with gold and paint in honour of Jesus Christ, the Saviour of mankind.”

The central row of ceiling paintings depicts the life of Saint Aloysius Gonzaga, to whom this chapel is dedicated. Born into nobility as the eldest son of the Marquis of Castiglione in Italy, Aloysius renounced his inheritance to pursue a religious life, dedicating himself to serving others.

One of the paintings showcases Aloysius, dressed in black, handing over his sword to his younger brother, symbolizing his relinquishment of the marquisate. 

This elegant chapel is a must-visit destination for every Christian and art lover. I’m sure it will leave a lasting impression on all those who step inside, as it did for me.

Right next to the chapel is the Aloyseum, a museum started in 1913 that showcases rare artifacts from the annals of history.

The exhibits offer a glimpse into the sacred past, including priestly vestments, sacred icons, and church artifacts, a wooden cross from the 1880s being among them.

Rare Christian books and manuscripts, including several palm leaf manuscripts and copies of the Bible in different languages, are prominently displayed here.

Apart from Mangalore’s historic churches, I also got to visit some 20th-century ones. One of them was the Guardian Angel Church situated in an area called ‘Angelore,’ which translates to ‘the land of angels’ in the local language. 

Founded by Belgian Carmelites in 1947, the Infant Jesus Shrine is situated atop Carmel Hill.

The church’s architecture is meticulously planned, infused with rich symbolic meaning and significance drawn from Biblical themes. The basement surrounded by the five huge columns represents the palm of the hand of God, as described in the Book of Isaiah, which says, ‘I have carved you on the palm of my hand.’ The five columns represent the fingers of God’s hand converging towards the globe symbolizing the universe. The Cross above the globe signifies that God’s love has redeemed all humanity through Christ.

During my time in the city, I attended Holy Masses at St. Francis Xavier Church in Bejai and St. Lawrence Church in Bondel. The services, one in Kannada and the other in Konkani, were a meaningful experience, with the hymns and prayers resonating deeply despite the language barrier. At the end of the day, spirituality knows no language.

Mangalore is reputed for its artisanal ice cream makers, rightfully earning it the title of India’s ice cream capital. The most iconic among them is Pabbas, a name every Mangalorean would swear by.

The city’s distinct ice cream culture has fans across generations. The parlour was abuzz with a lively crowd, and I had to wait to get a table.

Their ice cream is crafted with the finest of natural ingredients, completely free from artificial colours and flavours. I tried, perhaps a bit too generously, some of their best scoops. The thick milk base gave it a rich and creamy texture that’s simply irresistible.

My ice cream affair with Pabbas didn’t stop with one visit and I kept returning. While there, I indulged in their unique signature creation, the Gadbad, a layered ice cream sundae featuring three flavors of ice cream, jelly, fresh fruits, and chopped nuts, all served in a tall glass. With each spoon, I was left craving more.

Their ice cream pizza was yet another masterpiece from Pabbas. Topped with white chocolate and jello, the dessert was a delightful treat.

Besides the OG Pabbas, the city was scattered with several other joints. Ideal Ice Cream and Hangyo are two ice cream brands that are native to Mangalore and have won fans across the country. I tried their specialties, and they were just as good.

With Mangalore being a coastal city, it’s a seafood lover’s paradise. Fish, prawn, squid, crab, you name it, each one has its own specialties.

Ask any Mangalorean their favourite restaurant, and Machali is sure to be on the list. The name fittingly translates to fish in the local language.

At this no-frills restaurant bustling with locals, I savoured the authentic thali, served with hard-boiled rice, fish gravy, beans, pickle, chips, and prawns.

I then tried their Prawns Ghee Roast, a spicy Tuluva Mangalorean specialty where succulent jumbo prawns are perfectly roasted in a rich blend of spices and ghee. Each bite was an explosion of flavours.

I topped off the meal with a refreshing glass of kokum juice and buttermilk. Kokum is a dark purple fruit that is best known for its digestive properties.

On another given day, I dined at Giri Manja’s, a humble seafood restaurant with a homely ambience. Their Fish Thali and Prawns Ghee Roast were equally impressive.

With so many iconic restaurants, Mangalore left me spoilt for choice. Shetty Lunch Home was one such top-rated eatery. Dripping with generous dollops of butter, their Butter Garlic Chicken was irresistibly delicious. While their Squid Ghee Roast was a spicy treat.

Gajalee was next on my plate. Although it wasn’t as reasonably priced as Machali and Giri Manja’s, it came highly recommended by many in the city. The restaurant, housed in what looked like a traditional home, boasted a charming roof lined with Mangalore tiles (insulating clay tiles first produced in Mangalore by German missionaries).

Kori Rotti is a traditional Mangalorean delicacy made from thin, crispy rice wafers paired with red chili and coconut milk-based chicken curry. As I dipped the broken wafers into the gravy, it melted in my mouth, making each bite a delight.

I then visited Mangalore Donne Biryani to sample the namesake dish. Donne in Kannada refers to dried arecanut palm leaves. The preparation involves cooking marinated chicken chunks and rice with ground spices in copper vessels and serving them in leaf cups. The rice was flavourful and aromatic, while the chicken was tender.

Around 20% of Mangalore’s population is made up of Muslims, contributing to the city’s rich culinary diversity. I dropped by National Palace, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant serving authentic Mangalorean Muslim cuisine.

Their trademark dish is Beef Coating, featuring succulent beef chunks coated in rich spices and deep-fried to crisp. The crunchy exterior gave way to tender, juicy meat.

I spent the evenings exploring Dubai Market, a bustling shopping street that sells anything and everything, from electronics to clothing and imported goods.

Mangalore is one of those cities that stays with you long after you’ve left. In this city full of heart, you leave a piece of your own behind. I will always cherish my memories of Mangalore.