Basking in the Batumi Sun

Located on the Black Sea coast, Batumi is a bustling city that combines the charm of a seaside resort town with the excitement of a vibrant nightlife hub. With its laid-back atmosphere, and stunning views, the city is ideal for a relaxing day by the beach. Batumi is hands-down the party capital of the Caucasus.

As soon as I stepped out of the Batumi Central railway station, the beach greeted me with its vast expanse of blue. The gentle sound of waves crashing against the shore filled the air.

Venturing further, I came across aesthetic buildings that looked straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. They offered a glimpse of both the old Soviet world and the new emergent Georgia.

My stay was at Hostel 47. It’s rated the best backpacker hostel in Batumi, and rightly so. Located in the heart of the city, the place is at a walking distance from the beach. The host Lika was super warm and friendly, making sure my stay was comfortable during the three days I spent there.

A few blocks away was the Batumi Piazza, the largest marble mosaic square in Europe. It’s a happening place where you can find everything, be it restaurants, cafés, and live music.

Exploring the bustling streets of Batumi, I was immersed in a vibrant atmosphere filled with friendly locals and a range of markets selling souvenirs and handmade crafts.

During a stroll along the Batumi Boulevard, a 7 km-long seaside promenade, I spotted a bunch of architectural marvels.

Colonnades

Alphabetic Tower

Batumi Tower

Geodesic Dome

A memorial stood in honour of the Georgian soldiers who fell during the August 2008 Russo-Georgian War. Since then, one-third of the region of Georgia is contested.

On the way, I chanced upon a roadside wine seller and savoured a glass of traditional pomegranate wine. The deep crimson hue of the wine hinted at its rich taste. Did you know? Georgia is the oldest wine-producing country in the world, with wine being cultivated there for 8,000 years.

The beachside stalls displayed colourful variants of churchkhela, the ubiquitous traditional Georgian candy made by dipping strings of nuts into freshly pressed grape juice.

There were lots of interesting sculptures along the path. The magnum opus was yet to come though.

Medea, a Colchian Princess

Memed Abashidze, an eminent Georgian writer

Venus and Angels

Fadiko Gogitidze, the first Georgian female pilot

Behold, the statue of Ali and Nino. The story behind this structure is equally fascinating. It revolves around two star-crossed lovers, who are the protagonists of the namesake literary classic. Ali, an Azerbaijani man, falls in love with Nino, a Georgian princess. Fate intervenes in the form of the First World War and Ali dies a soldier’s death, leaving a forlorn Nino behind. The story reminds of the Shakespearean tragedy of Romeo and Juliet.

This epic love story inspired a Georgian artist to create this colossal automated structure in 2010. The two metallic figures slowly slide towards each other and their paths cross, but they never truly connect. This is a real-world allusion to the relationship which was never meant to be. A tragic love story indeed!

Fun fact: Nino is the second-most common name for women in Georgia after Mariam.

A Turkish cab driver recommended Eat, Dear!, a cozy no-frills diner run by three generations of women. In his own words, “You get authentic Georgian food here. It’s inexpensive yet tastes like five-star.”

Minutes after pondering over what to order, I narrowed down to Ojakhuri (traditionally roasted pork made with fried potatoes and onions) and Chicken Kiev (a baked dish made of chicken fillet pounded and rolled around cold butter, then coated with egg and bread crumbs). Topped off the hearty meal with a glass of Georgian lemonade.

My next stop was the Sameba Monastery, which is located on a mountain in the outskirts. Trekking through the dense woods, I could hear the sound of chanting prayers resonating in the air.

Originally built in the second half of the 19th century, the Sameba Monastery is perched on a hill overlooking the Black Sea coast. Run by a cloistered religious order, the church is an abode of peace away from the hustle and bustle of civilization. At an elevation of 1312 feet above sea level, the church offered a breathtaking vantage point of Batumi city.

Almost every part of the city had a church. From Georgian Orthodox to Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic to Catholic, they were diverse in number.

St. Nicholas Church

Cathedral of the Mother of God

St. Tbeli Abuserisdze Orthodox Church

Church of the Holy Spirit

Christ the Saviour Armenian Apostolic Church

Church of St. Barbara

The interiors of the churches were adorned with frescoes dating back centuries. These exquisite paintings portrayed a rich tapestry of scenes from the Bible with artistic intricacy.

Besides, the city also houses a 120-year-old Ashkenazi synagogue built during the reign of King Nicholas II when Georgia was part of the Russian Empire.

Next came the cable car ride up to the Anuria Mountain. At a height of 839 feet, the ride was exhilarating. The bird’s-eye view of the bustling streets and the Black Sea was sight to behold.

The top station is located at an elevation of 820 feet above sea level. A memorial cross stood proud at the observatory deck, showcasing the city in all its glory. I took a cable car ride in Batumi.

After being high up in the air, I ventured into the waters aboard a yacht named Natali. The city’s skyline, with its modernist architecture juxtaposed against the backdrop of the blue waters, created a breathtaking scene.

Since Batumi is close to Turkey and attracts many tourists from there, it’s a given that you could get a taste of authentic Turkish cuisine here. My culinary quest took me to Baraka, a top-rated Turkish restaurant in the downtown, where I had İskender kebap, a dish that consists of sliced döner kebab meat topped with hot tomato sauce over pieces of pita bread, and served with yogurt. The juicy meat coupled with the creamy yoghurt made for a delicious dinner.

As the sun began to set, the city came alive with a mesmerizing display of lights and music. From casinos to amusement rides to music concerts, there was something for everyone, some of them lasting well into the early hours of the morning. No wonder Batumi is nicknamed the Las Vegas of the Black Sea.

Loads of folks, tourists and residents alike, huddled together near the Piazza in high spirits. The night seemed to never end.

My trip to Batumi was memorable in every sense, from the picturesque places to the friendly people, everything was so refreshing that makes me want to go again.