When the Kazbegi Mountains Call

Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) was on top of my list of places to visit in Georgia. Nestled in the picturesque Caucasus Mountains, Kazbegi stands as a captivating must-visit destination, offering a perfect blend of beauty and history that enchants visitors from around the globe.

Being a small town with less than 5000 people, Kazbegi is located in the far northeast of Georgia, close to the Russian border as well as the breakaway republic of South Ossetia.

In medieval times, the town was named Stepantsminda after the Georgian Orthodox monk Saint Stephan, who established a hermitage here. Following the Red Army invasion of Georgia, the militantly antitheistic Soviets officially renamed the town Kazbegi in1925.

At first, I was planning to board a marshrutka from the Didube bus terminal in Tbilisi and go there all by myself. On second thoughts, I realized that a group tour would be better off since there would be more stops along the way.

While walking out of the Metekhi Church, I serendipitously bumped into Taso Gogoladze of Fun Travel Georgia, who was kind enough to offer me a discounted deal for the next day.

The next day, I woke up and headed to the same church, which was the boarding point for the tour. At around 8:30 am, the minibus arrived and I was the first to hop in. The bus headed to Freedom Square, where the others joined.

Our guide for the day, Otto, was fluent in both English and Russian. The group was small, and I got to meet some interesting fellow tourists — a Coptic Orthodox family of four, a Japanese family of three, two brothers from China, and last but not least, Ahmed, a Syrian youngster.

As we entered the historic Georgian Military Highway and left the bustling city of Tbilisi behind, the landscape underwent a dramatic transformation, unfolding before us like a painting coming to life. The lush greenery was a stark contrast to the urban chaos we had just left behind.

Our first stop on the journey was the Zhinvali Dam, an engineering marvel nestled amidst the picturesque Georgian landscapes. As we arrived, the sight of the tranquil turquoise waters took our breath away.

The reservoir, with its crystal-clear waters reflecting the azure sky above, seemed like a mirror to the heavens. Captivated by the serene beauty of the place, we couldn't resist but pause for a moment to capture the essence of this place through our lenses

The bustling market stalls adorned with Georgian souvenirs beckoned us to explore further. The vibrant colours and intricate designs of the handicrafts on display spoke volumes about the rich cultural heritage of Georgia.

From traditional embroidered textiles to artistic showpieces, exotic spices to traditional wines, each item seemed to carry a piece of the country's history. Fun fact: Winemaking can be dated back to 8000 BC in Georgia, making it one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world.

Our next stop on the journey took us to where the Black and White Aragvi rivers meet in the Dusheti municipality. The contrasting shades of the two rivers made for a wondrous sight. The Black Aragvi, with its dark, mysterious waters, flowed gracefully alongside the White Aragvi, whose pristine, white waters shimmered in the sunlight.

The meeting of these two rivers felt like nature was perfectly in balance and harmony. The gentle sound of the flowing waters made the whole place feel so calm and serene.

A lady was selling fruits at a riverside stand. I bought a cup of freshly plucked blueberries to munch along the way. As expected, they were absolutely delicious.

After this, we were greeted by the captivating castle complex of Ananuri. Perched majestically along the Aragvi River, Ananuri’s towers and walls tell stories of battles fought and victories won, echoing the resilience of the Aragvi dynasty, which ruled the area during the 13th century.

Within its walls stand two magnificent churches that hold a timeless legacy, namely the Church of the Virgin and the Church of the Mother of God.

Since it was a Sunday, the divine liturgy was going on inside the Church of the Mother of God in the Ananuri Fortress. Keeping in line with the custom of the Georgian Orthodox Church, we were standing during the entirety of the liturgy.

The scent of incense wafted in the air, mingling with the soft glow of candlelight that illuminated the religious icons on the walls.

The exterior walls of the church were lined with intricate inscriptions meticulously engraved in the elegant Georgian script. With their graceful curves and distinctive characters, the letters stood as a symbol of the enduring connection between art and language.

Even though the second church was closed during our visit, I checked it out from the outside before leaving.

Ananuri is a must-visit destination for those seeking to immerse themselves in Georgia’s religious and cultural tapestry.

We broke for lunch at a cosy restaurant along the way. While the fellow travelers in my group opted for the comfort of the air-conditioned indoors, I was drawn to the outdoor seating since it came with a vantage point of the green mountains.

Ahmed, a fellow traveller in the group, kept me engaged with a lively conversation. Aged 22, he had left his hometown of Raqqa in Syria fourteen years back and has been living in Riyadh ever since. We discussed the political situation in Syria. While most of the news about Syria comes from Western sources, it was refreshing to hear the account of an actual Syrian.

We were then treated to a honey-tasting experience on the way, where a lady explained the health benefits of locally sourced honey varieties while handing out samples.

The jars of pure honey glistened in the sunlight. It was insightful to know about the diverse flavours and textures of the honey variants, giving me a newfound appreciation for the art of beekeeping.

Amid the honey-tasting session, I was drawn to the sight of a nearby pyramid-shaped house. Set amid wildflowers, the house was picture perfect.

Our next destination on the itinerary was the ski resort town of Gudauri, where we saw the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument. Wait, what friendship?

Built in 1983 during the Soviet era, the monument commemorates 200 years since the signing of the Treaty of Georgievsk, in which Russia pledged to protect Georgia and uphold its territorial integrity.

The view from the monument was inspiring in every sense. If you are an artist looking for a muse, this place is sure to enchant you.

The interior featured colourful murals depicting historical scenes from Russia on one side and Georgian on the other.

With hindsight, the monument seemed like an anachronism, because relations between Russia and Georgia have been tense since the 2008 Russo-Georgian War, where Russia supported the secession movements of two Georgian regions, South Ossetia and Abkhazia.

Our last destination for the day was Kazbegi, where we were all set to visit the pièce de résistance of the trip — the Gergeti Trinity Church.

The rural townlet offered incredible views of the towering peaks and is a popular destination for nature enthusiasts and hikers. The tranquil atmosphere makes it an ideal retreat for those seeking a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of civilization. There was no shortage of natural beauty and cultural richness to discover in this abode.

I deliberately chose to visit Kazbegi in the summer, because winters in Georgia can be fiercely cold with snow and freezing temperatures, making the road to the church inaccessible. On the other hand, the warm weather paves way for adventurous rides through the rugged terrain, offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.

Finally, arriving in Kazbegi, the sight of the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church standing proudly against the backdrop of Mount Kazbek was truly breathtaking.

Although I’d initially wanted to do the 3-km trek up the mountain, I joined the others in a 6x6 jeep to the top. As the car got closer and closer to the Gergeti Trinity Church, I was wonderstruck.

The air was filled with a sense of tranquility as I stepped out of the car and walked towards the church, anticipating what awaited me inside its hallowed halls.

Built in the 14th century under King Giorgi V, the Trinity Church of Gergeti stands as a symbol of the religious revival and reunification of Georgia after its liberation from the Mongols.

Life came to a standstill inside the church. The candles cast a warm glow on the walls, creating an ethereal atmosphere inviting devotees to pause and contemplate in the presence of God.

The interiors were adorned with sacred icons and artistic frescoes.

Pilgrims from all over the world prayed and lit candles.

I personally found the Orthodox icons of Christ and Mother Mary to be more faithful to their Semitic origins, contrary to the whitewashed icons displayed in Catholic churches.

Coming outside, I got to witness the majestic Mount Kazbek. Situated at 16,581 ft above sea level, the snow-capped mountain is the third-highest peak in Georgia.

Among the locals, the mountain is known as the ‘The Bride’ because it’s often hidden behind a veil of fog. Serendipitously, the sky was clear during my visit, revealing the mountain in all its glory.

After spending close to half an hour at the church, we bade goodbye to the mountains and got back into our jeep. The downhill drive was smooth and scenic, mainly due to the climate.

One of my co-passengers was a young Ukrainian woman. She told me she was from the Luhansk region, which was been war-torn since 2014. Out of curiosity, I showed her my 2022 poem about the Ukraine war, and after reading it, she commented that it was “very strong.”

After almost a day of traveling, I left Kazbegi with a mind full of memories and a camera full of photos. Late British photojournalist Dan Eldon once said, “The journey is the destination.”

True to those words, the journey to Kazbegi was enlightening and will remain etched in my memory forever.