Vestiges of Velha Goa

When the lionhearted Portuguese admiral Afonso Albuquerque and his forces landed at the mouth of the Mandovi River in west India aboard the legendary Flor do Mar, little did they know that they would forge a new empire and leave behind a lasting legacy in the region.

Goa, a small land pretty much like its name, has never ceased to enchant travelers from near and afar. This tiny gem is celebrated for its breathtaking beaches, enduring Portuguese influence, and, above all, its profound spiritual significance

If Goa is a person, Velha Goa is its soul. Once the capital of the region, Velha Goa still echoes with the glorious past, its historic churches, and heritage architecture standing as testament to its enduring legacy.

From the moment I stepped foot here, this place never failed to captivate me with its old-world charm, starting with its very name

The Viceroy’s Arch gives a befitting entrance to the historic city. It was built by Vasco da Gama’s grandson, who became the viceroy in 1597. 

The Portuguese used red laterite to build numerous structures in Goa, including churches, forts, and houses, which still bear witness to the material’s durability.

Walking further from the arch, yet another entrance came into view. The Gateway of the Palace of Adil Shah is a remnant of the once-majestic palace of the Sultan of Bijapur, who ruled Goa before it was ceded to the Portuguese.

Near the arch stands the Saint Cajetan Church, constructed in 1661 by three Italian monks of the Theatine order, who were sent by Pope Urban VIII. The church is modeled on St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City. 

The monks also built a hospital and convent, naming them after their founder, Saint Cajetan, who was renowned for his compassionate work in hospitals and with those afflicted by incurable diseases.

The church features seven ornate altars, with the grand main altar dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence, inspired by the Church of San Nicolo in Verona.

Inscribed around the dome is a Latin verse from Matthew 6:33, Quaerite primum regnum Dei et haec omnia adjicientur vobis which translates to ‘Seek ye first the Kingdom of God, and all these things shall be added unto you.’

The walls are decorated with canvas paintings executed in the style of the Italian School, a popular artistic tradition of the era.

Wherever I turned, lush greenery stretched out in every direction.

Scattered across vast farmlands, the solitary houses were a dream come true for someone like me, who cherishes solitude.

Almost every house here had a cross outside its entrance, proudly proclaiming the closely knit community’s heritage. Some of them also showcased vintage cars, staying true to the name Old Goa.

My visit to Velha Goa was not just any visit, it was the visit of a decade. Coinciding with the Saint Francis Xavier Exposition, I witnessed the largest event in Goa, held once every ten years, drawing millions of pilgrims from around the world. I’m grateful to Lynstel Fernandes, a friend from Old Goa, who told me about this event.

Saint Francis Xavier is undoubtedly the greatest missionary of all time. He traveled the length and breadth of the world to spread the love of God. During his lifetime, he inspired 700,000 people to embrace the faith.

He is affectionately revered as Goencho Saib (Protector of Goa) owing to his unflinching work in this region. 

In 1552, Francis Xavier died on an island in the southern coast of China during a mission. He was initially buried in Malacca in modern-day Malaysia. When his body was exhumed a few months later, it was found to be incorrupt, with no signs of decay. Fresh blood stains were visible on a silk pillow that had been placed under his head. The incorrupt state of his body has been attributed to his sinless life. 

When his body was eventually brought to Goa for its final resting place, an observer wrote, “his right eye was open and so fresh that he seemed to be alive; and his cheeks were, too, and the fingers with which he held the divine sacrament.”

In 1782, the sacred relics of Saint Francis Xavier were first exposed to the public. Since the 1960s, this exposition has been held every decade, where millions venerate the saint’s miraculously incorrupt body.

The crown jewel of Goa is the historic Basilica of Bom Jesus, built by the Portuguese in 1594. This iconic red a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. Within its sacred walls, the casket of Saint Francis Xavier is enshrined, elevated and kept above public view.

Together with six other churches, the basilica forms a UNESCO World Heritage site collectively known as the ‘Churches and Convents of Goa’.

The Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina, known as Se Cathedral, was built to commemorate the triumphant victory of the Portuguese forces led by Afonso de Albuquerque over the Muslim army in 1510, resulting in the capture of Goa. As the victory coincided with the feast day of Saint Catherine, the cathedral was dedicated to her.

The church was commissioned by the Portuguese Viceroy to be “a grandiose church worthy of the wealth, power and fame of the Portuguese who dominated the seas from the Atlantic to the Pacific.” And the grand Corinithian interior stand as a testament to the grand vision.

To the right is a a chapel of the Cross of Miracles, where a miraculous vision of Christ appeared in 1619.

Besides the main altar dedicated to Saint Catherine, there are eight chapels and six altars along the sides. Each is a work of art in its own right.

The walls feature centuries-old paintings of saints that still stand the test of time, remaining well-preserved to this day.

The historic Chapel of Saint Catherine (Capela de Santa Catarina) is located in the same compound as Se Cathedral. It was erected by Afonso de Albuquerque in 1510 to commemorate his victorious entry to the city of Goa on Saint Catherine’s Day. 

Saint Catherine was one of the early Christian martyrs. She protested the persecution of Christians under the Roman emperor Maxentius and was tortured to death.

This petite chapel is the smallest of Goa’s heritage churches and convents to be recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nearby stands the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi. It traces its roots to 1517, when eight Franciscan friars arrived in Goa and founded a chapel, which eventually expanded into the majestic church seen today.

The gilded interior is adorned with paintings depicting the life of Saint Francis. The carved woodwork, statues, and frescoes with floral designs add to the artistic value of the church.

The altar showcases a tabernacle carried by the Four Evangelists. Above it is a depiction of Saint Francis of Assisi hugging the crucified Christ. The side walls are decorated with paintings depicting the life of the saint.

Saint Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy and the founder of the Franciscan order, was renowned for his devotion to poverty and charity. He had a profound appreciation for God’s creation, often praising the divine artist behind every aspect of nature. Fittingly, the church dedicated to him is a reflection of the beauty he saw in God’s creation.

The carved woodwork, statues, and frescoes with floral designs add to the church’s artistry.

Right next to the church is the Archaeological Museum of Goa showcasing prized artefacts chronicling the region’s history over the centuries.

Its most prized possession is the sacred relic of Queen Ketevan, the revered martyr and monarch of Kakheti, a historic kingdom of Georgia. Following her husband’s death, her kingdom was invaded by Shah Abbas I. Held captive in Iran for nearly a decade, the queen was given an ultimatum by the Shah to either convert to Islam and join his harem or be tortured and executed. Being the woman of steel she was, Queen Ketevan chose to die for her faith. In 1624, she was brutally tortured by being stripped to the waist and having her flesh torn off with the use of red hot pincers before being strangled to death with a bow string.

Queen Ketevan was buried without ceremony, but two Augustinian monks, whom she had befriended, ensured her remains were treated with dignity. They secretly exhumed her body, smuggled it to Goa, and reburied it in the Saint Augustine Church complex. Later, when the convent and church were abandoned, her remains were excavated and preserved in this museum.

Outside the museum, millstones from a 17th-century gunpowder factory are on display. Established in 1630 by Viceroy Francisco da Gama, the factory imported millstones from Belgium to produce gunpowder for the Portuguese colonies.

During my sojourn, I stayed at the pilgrim house, an annex building of the Se Cathedral. This historic residence once served as the archbishop’s quarters, making my stay in this hallowed place a blessed experience.

My time here was enriched by conversations with fellow pilgrims, some of whom were first-timers like me, while others had been visiting since childhood.

The day of the exposition’s inauguration finally arrived and the atmosphere was filled with a sense of devotion and celebration. The Mass was attended by over 12,000 people from different parts of the globe. 

All eyes were on the specially designed electric carriage which would transport the saint’s casket to Se Cathedral, where it would be placed on public display for veneration over the next two months.

With great fanfare, the relic casket was placed aboard the carriage, marking the beginning of a solemn procession, led by thousands of clergy and faithful.

Not to mention the tiny tots dressed as angels.

Emblazoned on the carriage was the Latin inscription Mox inimica fugat, meaning ‘Hostile night is put to flight,’ below which a relief sculpture depicts Francis Xavier preaching to the locals.

Serenaded by the soulful melodies of the band, the relic made its way to the cathedral.

Cars and buses carrying pilgrims from different parts of the country began to arrive in a steady stream.

Long queues formed outside the cathedral, winding its way through the streets. Pilgrims patiently waited for hours to venerate the sacred relic. All in all, a record 7 million pilgrims flocked to the 2024 exposition. 

Staying within the cathedral grounds gave me the advantage of skipping the queue outside and directly entering the venue. In other words, I was a VIP (Very Important Pilgrim).

Finally, the most-awaited moment arrived, and I stood in deep reverence alongside fellow pilgrims as we witnessed the incorrupt body of the saint.

The fact that the body of someone who died 472 years ago has still not yet decomposed is a reminder of divine providence. Great are your works, oh Lord!

Following the relic veneration, I headed outside to find the street bustling with pop-up stalls that sold holy articles, confectionery, clothes, and an assortment of other items. Over time, the number of stalls increased exponentially, eventually blocking the roads and forming a massive two-kilometer-long stretch that served the daily influx of pilgrims.

Among the local specialties on sale were Goan Catholic culinary delights, showcasing hints of Portuguese influence.  Chorizo pao, traditional Goan pork sausage buns, is a signature snack of the Feast of Saint Francis Xavier. The tender meat and juicy spices made it irresistibly delicious, making it impossible to stop at just one.

Yet another snack I tried was the cutlet pao. The juicy marinated beef cutlet sandwiched in a freshly baked bun was an appetizing treat.  

And the prawn rissois, of course. Deep-fried to perfection, these semi-circular shrimp patties exploded with creamy cheese.

Next, I ventured to explore the timeless grandeur of the remaining UNESCO heritage sites, each speaking to the region’s rich legacy. At a distance, the St. Augustine Tower stood tall, a remnant of the historic church built in 1602.

Dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Graça (Our Lady of Grace), the church was founded by Augustinian friars who landed in Goa in 1587, earning recognition as one of the three great Augustinian churches in the Iberian world, along with El Escorial in Spain and the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora in Portugal.

The church had four towers, of which only one remains. The 150-feet tall tower served as a belfry and formed part of the façade of the once-glorious church.

Modern-day excavations reveal that the complex had eight ornately decorated chapels, four altars, and a convent.

In 1835, the Augustinians were expelled from Goa due to the repressive policies of the Portuguese government, resulting in the abandonment of the church.

Centuries of neglect caused the church to gradually collapse, leaving behind only its remains. Nevertheless, the remains remain one of the most-visited tourist spots in Goa.

Atop the Monte Santo (Holy Hill), the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary stands vigil over Old Goa. In 1510, Afonso de Albuquerque made a vow to build a church in gratitude if his soldiers emerged victorious. Upon receiving word of their triumphant conquest of Goa, he fulfilled his promise by commissioning a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary on the very site where he stood.

Simple and elegant in design, the church holds a special connection to Saint Francis Xavier, who taught catechism here during its early years.

The interior features three altars, the main one being dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary.

The church houses the tomb of Dona Catarina, the first Portuguese woman to arrive in Goa. Her marriage to the Governor of Goa was notably solemnized by Saint Francis Xavier himself.

One of the church’s most striking features is its baptismal font, expertly carved out of a single granite slab.

The stone pulpit was designed to let the clergy to stand above the congregation, delivering sermons to the gathered faithful.

Christ said, “Come to me, all you who are weary and burdened, and I will give you rest.” It looks like His words extend far beyond humanity, as this dog has clearly taken them to heart inside the church.

The hill offers a breathtaking view of the Mandovi river below. Historically, this church was the first sight to greet visitors arriving in Old Goa by river.

Velha Goa is nestled in a scenic valley, surrounded by three hills. One of these hills, Boa Vista (Hill of Good View), is home to the iconic Church of the Cross of Miracles (Cruz dos Milagres).

In 1619, a priest placed a teak cross on this hillock, which miraculously grew in size. People reported seeing an apparition of Jesus Christ on the cross, surrounded by an ethereal flame. After verifying the miracle, the cross was named Cruz dos Milagres, and a church was built on the site of the apparition.

The Cross of Miracles was later shifted to Se Cathedral in 1845. Goans celebrate this church’s feast on the 23rd of every month.

Adjacent to the church lies the Saint Joseph Vaz Spiritual Renewal Center, providing a serene and sacred space for prayer and retreat.

Born in Goa, Saint Joseph Vaz was a missionary who traveled to Ceylon during the Dutch occupation, when Catholicism was banned in the island. He was canonized by Pope Francis in 2015 and is one among the only three saints of Indian origin.

After exploring the churches in the UNESCO heritage site series, I went on to uncover the lesser-known gems. Built in 1630, the Convent and Church of Santa Monica was the first and largest nunnery in Goa. Dedicated to Saint Monica, mother of Saint Augustine, the church served as a convent for cloistered nuns who lived simple lives without any contact with the outside world.

Founded by a Portuguese friar in 1543, the Royal Chapel of Saint Anthony holds a fascinating history.

Saint Anthony, patron saint of military forces, was honoured with a ceremonial salary, which the Chaplain received on his behalf. Every year, during Saint Anthony’s feast, his image was paraded to the Public Treasury, where the treasurer would present the payment. In 1838, the then Governor discontinued this tradition, sparking public outcry. In a twist of fate, the Governor fell from his carriage and died. After his demise, the payment was promptly reinstated.

The Convent and Church of Saint John of God was built by members of the lay order of Saint John of God who had arrived in Goa in 1685. Saint John of God was a Spanish saint and the founder of the Brothers Hospitallers, an order dedicated to caring for the poor, sick, and needy. Staying true to his mission, the convent also included a hospital for the underprivileged.

The church hosted a special art exhibition, ‘Footprints of Hope,’ showcasing the life and times of Saint Francis Xavier. Featuring works by 62 artists from diverse backgrounds, the exhibition celebrated the enduring legacy of the saint.

As an art enthusiast, I was completely in awe of the stunning artworks on display, ranging from traditional paintings and sculptures to modern installations.

What’s remarkable in particular is that these artworks were envisioned by artists of diverse faiths, underscoring the saint’s universal appeal and enduring reverence throughout Goa.

One of the most famous miracles of Saint Francis Xavier was his recovery of the cross he had lost at sea. During a stormy voyage to Malacca in 1546, Xavier threw his cross into the sea, praying for calm. The storm subsided, but the cross was lost. Miraculously, upon reaching the shores of Malacca, he found a crab crawling towards him, holding the cross in its claw.

Adlem Goi was my go-to restaurant for authentic Goan cuisine in Velha Goa. Every time I dined, I discovered a new favourite dish.

Art permeates every aspect of Goan life, and the restaurant’s creative interiors, which beautifully capture the region’s history, attest to the same.

As a coastal region, Goa is world-famous for its succulent seafood. The traditional Goan thali is a masterful arrangement of the region’s culinary best. The prawns are expertly prepared with recheado masala, a signature spice blend that adds a tangy flavour. Sol kadhi, a pink-hued liquid made from kokum fruit extract, is traditionally consumed after meals to aid digestion and provide a refreshing finish.

Chorizo pulao is a flavourful rice dish made with rice, Goan pork sausages, and aromatic spices. The sausages, preserved in vinegar, are tangy and hit the spot. For many Goans, this is the quintessential dish that reminds them of home.

Chicken Xacuti is a classic Goan curry crafted with roasted spices, rich coconut milk, and tender chicken. The name Xacuti originates from the Portuguese word Chacuti meaning a spicy curry dish.

My last stop for the journey was the Museum of Christian Art, the first and probably only one of its kind in Asia.

This esteemed institution has enriched Goa’s cultural heritage and history by showcasing it to the world. Its impressive collection features exquisite specimens of Goan church art that go back centuries.

The ornate articles, vestments, and furniture used by the clergy are prominently displayed, giving a glimpse into the regal past.

The collection features beautifully crafted rosaries, monstrances, and holy articles made from gold and precious stones. The value of these items was brought to light by a heist in 2012.

I spent over an hour delving into the exhibits, with each turn revealing a new surprise, engrossing me into the pages of history. Having the museum to myself, with no other visitors in attendance, added a touch of exclusivity to the experience.

Goa is often called the Rome of the East owing to its deep-rooted spiritual heritage. This is where faith, art, and history come together to create a beautiful tapestry.

As I bid adeus to Velha Goa, I feel grateful to have experienced the Saint Francis Xavier Exposition 2024, and am filled with a renewed purpose, inspired by the selfless devotion of the saint and the countless individuals who have dedicated their lives to serving others.